I never for a moment believed I knew everything there is to know about food, but it’s still pretty uncommon for me to be caught off guard by new information about basic American ingredients. Which is why I was absolutely flabbergasted recently when I learned (from America’s Test Kitchen, of course) that corn is so much nicer cooked below a boil. Apparently the pectin in it starts to break down over 185F, making the texture subpar.
Here’s the method: put whole corn cobs in cold water. Turn the heat on until the water reaches about 180F. Cut the heat, pop a lid on your pot and wait 15 minutes. Did I feel a bit silly using a candy thermometer to cook corn that first time? Yes, of course. Will I now be cooking corn with a candy thermometer always and forever? Mmmm hmmm. Tonight I’m using the batch I blanched over the weekend to make my favorite weeknight potato soup. And for once, there’s an actual recipe!
For every pound of yellow potatoes, saute one large diced leek and any other aromatics you desire—for me tonight, a few poblanos and jalapenos.
While they soften, peel and chop the potatoes into 1” cubes. Deglaze the pot with sherry or white wine, then add a big pinch kosher salt, 1/2t all purpose seasoning and potatoes. Barely cover with water or stock and simmer until tender, 15-20 minutes.
Puree about a quarter of the soup with 1 teaspoon cornstarch and 1/4 cup dairy (creme fraiche, sour cream, heavy cream, whatever!). Return to pot and simmer until thickened. Taste for seasoning. Throw in cooked greens or corn just to heat through. Makes 2-4 servings, depending on how much extra veg you use.
Top each bowl with herbs and a big spoonful of Greek yogurt.